Trimming and setup of a glider with a 4 servo wing

   
Airfoils
Aerodynamik
Trinitus
Models
Moulding
F3J
DLG / SAL
Miscellaneous
Links

News

Home

 

For sale

 
 
 
 

How to use  the multiple features in modern transmitters to control elevator, rudder, aileron and flaps?

The last years a lot of modern gliders has spread around the world. Gliders with ailerons and flaps and at the same time the new transmitters can do every thing we can ask for and sometimes more. The transmitters I know of that can do it all are Futabas FC 28,, Graupners MC 24, MC 22, X 22 and Multiplexs 3010 and 4000. Besides this there are probably the same quantity or more types that can do the same thing. Ask your dealer or ask some of the people you are going to fly with. They do certainly know what they are talking about, and if you are going to fly with them it is easier to have the same brand or even the same transmitter type.

At first glance it can look very complicated when these 4 wing "rudders" are used for ailerons, thermal flaps, launch flaps or launch preset, speed flaps, snap flaps, butterfly brake - let alone the words. I will go through the terms one by one to remove the magic.

I will not tell you how to program a plane with an MC 24 or any other transmitter. Most transmitters have very good text to follow and besides this I only know how to do it with three transmitters: 

  • Royal MC (middle of the 80’ies – programmed with turn potentiometers!),

  • MC 16/20 (beginning  of the  90’ies)

  • MC 24 (the most advanced transmitter from Graupner today) - mine is version ca. 2000

Shortly before year 2000 some F3J pilots started to use 6 wing "rudders" instead of 4. The 6 rudders can of course be mixed into an obscene mess. I'll spare you the details and let you have a look in the manual of the updated software of the MC 24 (2004).

On Graupners homapage you can find a description (in German) on how Phillip Kolb mixes his Soarmaster. The Soarmaster is designet by the farther of HQW airfoils - Helmuth Quabeck, and on his homepage you can also find his sugestions on how to setup the successor to the Soarmaster - the Soaring Star (also in German).

Rudder deflections - short

The more you move your rudders the more drag you create. Any rudder input creates drag and makes the glider sink faster i.e. you loose more height per minute than you would have if you hadn't steered at all. Lots of rudder deflection (= a lot of steering and violent) creates drag, higher sinking speed, lover you gliding angle and gives you shorter flight times.

If you follow this everybody should be flying gliders that continued on course 270 degrees until they landed. This is not very convenient. Sometimes it is necessary to make rudder inputs, to steer the glider into a thermal. And this way the steering input gave you more height and hence MORE flying time with rudder input than without. It is very important that you consider which inputs that are important for your glider and the flying time and which inputs that kicks your ego and makes you impress .the opposite sex.

The picture shows my Trinitus with neutral rudders

trinitus upperside wiev.JPG (78970 byte) trinitus underside wiev.JPG (95090 byte)

birthe.jpg (90871 byte) and my wife  - maneuvers for you ego works!

V-tail:

I have often heard people in doubt about how the rudders work on a V-tail. I will not give you a deep theoretical explanation, but just show you how it works.

This is my Trinitus with left rudder (left rudder moves down, right rudder moves up ):

v-tail-left rudder-1.JPG (29376 byte) v-tail-left rudder-2.JPG (22847 byte)

 

This is my Trinitus with right rudder (left rudder moves up, right rudder moves down ):

v-tail-right rudder-1.JPG (14039 byte) v-tail-right rudder-2.JPG (26362 byte)

 

This is my Trinitus with up elevator (both rudders move up):

v-tail-up elevator-1.JPG (33855 byte) v-tail-up elevator-2.JPG (28502 byte)

 

This is my Trinitus with down elevator (both rudders move down ):

v-tail-down elevator-1.JPG (48842 byte) v-tail-down elevator-2.JPG (40441 byte)

Aileron differential 

Ailerons on a glider shall move more up than down. With equal deflection, the rudder that moves down will create to much drag an turn the fuselage in the opposite direction of the intended banking (and turning). Even with differential it can sometimes be necessary to add rudder to overcome this effect. The phenomena is called "Inverse Yaw" and it is mostly a problem on scale gliders with large span and short fuselages. 

How much differential one needs to have least drag and to avoid Inverse Yaw depends on the wings angle attack? Generally speaking the slower you fly the more differential do you need. The slower you fly the more should the ailerons move up compared to the down movement.

If you can't switch between different flying phases (with different differential) settle on about 2-3 parts up and 1 part down i.e. the aileron moves 2-3 times more up than down.

Flaps deflection generally speaking

Since you can only fly with one airfoil at a time it is necessary to make a compromise - the best compromise. And the best compromise is to choose an airfoil that you can change while you are flying. This way you can have a slow airfoil and a fast airfoil in one flight. This you can do with flaps and ailerons coupled to the flaps. 

Very few airfoils are designed specifically to be used with active flaps, to gain the full potential. On most airfoils though one can benefit slightly with positive and negative flap deflections.. The HQW series is one airfoil that is designed to be used with both positive (=down) and negative (=up) flap deflections to gain a raise in performance at low and high speeds. Some of Mark Drelas airfoils are also designed to be used this way - AG 455-series

When you lower your flaps (=lower the trailing edge) you change the airfoil to a state where it can produce more lifting force AND you raise the lifting coefficient where the airfoil has the lowest drag. In short you get an airfoil that is better at flying slowly compared to flying with neutral flaps.

When you raise the flaps (=raise the trailing edge) you change the airfoil to a state where it can produce less lifting force AND you lower the lifting coefficient where the airfoil has the lowest drag. In short you get an airfoil that is better at flying fast compared to flying with neutral flaps.

I extreme circumstances you can raise the trailing edge to a degree where the very low lifting coefficients the airfoils is able to produce is actually negative, and you are best of flying upside down. This is good when you are showing off thermalling up side down low and far downwind.

Thermal flaps:

When you have found a thermal and you are circling in it you can lower your flaps and ailerons a bit to lower the airspeed which makes it possible for you to circle even tighter. Almost everybody who has the possibility lower the flaps and ailerons the same amount of DEGREES. This way you rise the available lifting force on the WHOLE wing instead of only in the middle. 

On most gliders lowering the flaps only means that you a lowering the speed where the glider has the lowest sinking speed without the glider actually sinking slower - the sinking speed stays the same. This lower airspeed gives you the possibility to circle tighter, but it won't give you longer flights without thermals.

With an airfoil like the HQW you can lower the gliders sinking speed a bit with positive flaps movement  (=down. A lower sinking speed gives you longer flight times if you don't look at thermals (that are always there!), sink and turbulence. When you use positive flaps you are also creating an airfoil that has lowest drag at a higher lifting coefficient (=higher angle of attack), therefore it is not wise to cruise with positive flaps deflection. If you want to cruise raise the flaps to neutral or even negative (=up) if you want to leave a sinking area fast.

A positive flaps deflection of +1-3 degrees (trailing edge down) is very often sufficient and you should be able to feel it very quickly if there is any benefits from it.

The pictures show my thermal flaps:

thermal flaps setting 1-1.JPG (34055 byte) thermal flaps setting 1-2.JPG (24440 byte) 2,5mm = 2,7 degrees

thermal flaps setting 2-1.JPG (35169 byte) thermal flaps setting 2-2.JPG (31985 byte) 5,0mm = 5,5 degrees

Launch flaps:

When launching you need an airfoil which can produce huge amounts of lifting force. You get this by lowering the flaps and ailerons in the first phase of the launch. I told above that the drag increases this way, but this time we don't have gravity as energy source - this time we have either 2 person towing up front, or we have an electrical winch besides us to give us the desired power to overcome the extra drag created by the large flaps deflection. The lifting force delivered by the deflected flaps is transformed into potential energy in the line that is being stretched and ready to contract and deliver the energy back as soon as you raise the flaps and perform the catapult. As soon as you prepare to dive for the catapult remember that you are about to accelerate and fly fast. when flying fast you need an airfoil that can fly fast and therefore you  raise you flaps to neutral or any other place that you have found out gives you the best catapult and the highest launch.

The pictures show my Trinitus with  launch flaps:

start flaps setting 1-1.JPG (35210 byte) start flaps setting 1-2.JPG (26352 byte) ca.8mm

start flaps setting 2-1.JPG (33627 byte) start flaps setting 2-2.JPG (29890 byte) ca. 14mm.

Speed flaps I don't use it since I fly f3J:

When you are flying very fast you might want to raise the flaps a bit. By having the flaps raised you create an airfoil that has lowest drag at a higher speed than normal. This way you can often fly faster than with neutral flaps.

The pictures show my Trinitus with speed flaps – negative flaps raised about ca. 2mm (=-2mm):

speed flaps-1.JPG (38188 byte) speed flaps

Snap flaps I don't use it since I fly f3J:

Snap flaps are used mainly in F3B and F3F, where you are going to fly both very fast in a straight line and at the same time turn 180 degrees very fast and tight. You mix elevator and flaps (coupled flaps and ailerons) so the trailing edge at full up elevator goes to a point below the neutral setting (=app.. the thermal setting). If it is possible to avoid the flaps in moving up with down elevator do it.

Snap flaps makes the wing (maybe with speed flaps) able to create high lifting forces with lower drag  in the turns. It is important to remember that snap flaps doesn't "lift" the plane around in the turn - it is not a turning aid. The snap flaps lower the drag in the turn so the turning movement doesn't create as much drag as it would have without snap flaps. Compared to a turn without snap flaps it might seem as the plane accelerates in the turn. This is not true. But it doesn't decelerate as much as you are used to. Remember that when you are performing a banked turn and pulls the elevator, you are forcing the airfoil to create lots of lifting force to make the plane go in another direction than straight ahead (remember your high school physics!). It is the increased angle of attack that makes the plane turn and remember that increase angles of attack makes the airfoils lifting coefficient go up, and when the lifting coefficient raises you want the drag to stay low = the demands to the airfoil in the turn are the same as to the airfoil circling in thermals!

Some people makes it look like their planes accelerate out of the turn. This may be so, but it has nothing to do with snap flaps, it is more due to some sort of DS action along the slope edge.

The picture shows my Trinitus with snap flaps at full up elevator. The flaps are lowered about 6-7mm. Be aware that the 6-7mm are from the speed flaps raised to -2mm, so at full up elevator the flaps go down to max thermal flaps setting (=+5mm flaps)

 

snap flaps with full up elevator.JPG (63572 byte) Snap flaps (+7mm)  with maximum up elevator

Butterfly brake:

When you have flown out the slot and want to land on time and on the spot the situation changes. Suddenly we want back some of the drag we have fought to remove. We want to make the glider ascend at slow speed and do it STEEP without acceleration This we do with a brake. Since we have both flaps and ailerons we don't need a separate brake.

The butterfly brake function makes the flaps go down 45-90 degrees according to you temper and pushrods and the ailerons go up 10-20 degrees. To counteract the nose up moment we add a tad of down elevator in the mixing. When you pull back on the throttle stick three things happen: The flaps go down, the ailerons go up and the elevator goes down. This way you can land very steep and slowly - AND precisely. Just before the model touches the ground you push the stick forwards to save the flaps ,servos and pushrods. It is easier than it sounds.

The picture shows my Trinitus with half and full butterfly brake - the flaps go down 22 and 52 degrees, the ailerons go up 10 and 15 degrees and the elevator compensates with 4mm and 7mm down elevator. It is not a switch, but two stages of a linear function on the throttle stick.

brakes half-1.JPG (35994 byte) brakes half-2.JPG (79282 byte) half brake

brakes full-1.JPG (29184 byte) brakes full-2.JPG (38834 byte) full brake

Coupled ailerons and flaps I don't use it since I fly f3J:

When you mix ailerons and flaps into the ailerons function you gain more maneuverability. Instead of only having the ailerons to function as ailerons you make the entire trailing edge to one long aileron and if you mix it so the flaps only move about ½ of the ailerons throw you get something like the Wright Brothers wing warping. Remember that rudder movement creates lifting forces in one or the other direction (up or down) and when one wing produces more lifting force upwards than before and the other wing prduces more lifting force downwards than before, the roll force is more power full and the roll rate will be quicker.

The effect of coupled ailerons and flaps is that the glider reacts quicker on ailerons input. This is nice when you need great maneuverability, but on the other hand any lifting force created has a brother named drag that tags along. Moving the entire trailing edge makes you change the airfoil on the whole wing instead of just part of it, and rudder movement is drag! Sometimes though you can be in a situation where you need very powerful steering and doing powerfull steering with only the ailerons makes the ailerons work VERY hard, and creating much drag. Switching to coupled ailerons and flaps makes the coupled rudders work less and hence creates less drag. Therefore when flying in thermals you want to steer as little as posible and with as small rudder movements as possible - use only the ailerons and in as small quatities as possible. When screaming along the slope edge trying to beat Kevein Newton or someone who is a fast F3F junkie you might want to couple the ailerons and flaps to get around the corners every 100 meters.

The picture shows my Trinitus with coupled ailerons and flaps in the speed flaps mode - the flaps move around 50% with the ailerons:

flaps aileron mix left-1.JPG (34484 byte) left

flaps aileron mix right-1.JPG (23382 byte) right

A schematic view of the rudder movements I use on my Trinitus (marts 2004)

The numbers are taken from a Trinitus with 48mm broad flaps and ailerons (where they meet). At the root the flaps are 53mm broad and at the tip the ailerons are 35mm broad - this is very close to 22% of the chord. The elevator is 40mm at the V-tail base.

plus (+) deflection is positive = down

minus (-) deflection is negative  = up

I have 4 flying modes / phases with different neutral positions (ailerons and flaps) and each flying mode / phase has separate rudder movements:

  1. Launch

  2. Normal

  3. Thermal 1

  4. Thermal 2

Switch 1 back forward forward back
Switch 2 forward forward back back
  Launch Normal Thermal 1 Thermal 2

Neutral settings

  Ailerons (48mm) Flaps (53mm) Elevator (40mm)
Launch

(variable)

8,5-15 deg. +8-14mm

8,5-15 deg.

0mm
Normal 0mm 0mm

0 deg.

0mm
Thermal 1 2,7 deg +2,5mm

2,7 deg.

0mm
Thermal 2 5,5 deg +5,0mm

5,5 deg

0mm

Notice that sometimes you need to compensate with elevator depending on airfoil and rudder width. A Trinitus with 22% rudders doesn't need elevator compensation, but with 28% rudders elevator compensation is needed.

Deflection / movements:

  Ailerons (48mm)

(differential)

Flaps (53mm) Elevator (40mm)

Rudder (40mm)

 

Launch -13mm/+2mm  (1:6,5)

-15,7 deg/+2,5 deg

0mm +9mm/-9mm

14,5 deg each way

Normal -17mm/+9mm  (1:1,9)

-20,7 deg/+10,8 deg

0mm +9mm/-9mm

14,5 deg each way

Thermal 1 -15mm/+7mm  (1.2,1)

-18 deg/+8,4 deg

0mm +9mm/-9mm

14,5 deg each way

Thermal 2 -14mm/+5mm  (1:2,8)

-17 deg/+7,2 deg

0mm +9mm/-9mm

14,5 deg each way

If you have only one flying mode or phase choose Normal.

Besides this I have dual rate on ailerons and elevator of 2/3 deflection and rudder 3/4 deflection on a switch that interferes with all flying modes or phases

I don't use coupled ailerons and rudder.

Butterfly brake:

  Ailerons (35mm) Flaps (53mm) Elevator (40mm)
Butterfly-

brake

half -6mm / -10 deg

full -9mm / -15 deg

(up)

half - +20mm / +22 deg

full - +42mm / +52 deg

(down)

half - +4mm/+5,7 deg

full - +7mm/+10 deg

(down)

I would like to make this guide more general and enlarge this page with YOUR adjustments to make the picture of how to trim a glider as perfect as possible.

Copy the part with schemes, paste it into a word document, and fill in your own movements, neutrals, and other details. If you can't calculate the degrees, I'll do it as long as you give me the rudder width and the movement. Thanks in advance.

Have a look at this Swedish homepage about rudder movements.

Centre of gravity - CG:

Where to start? Normally I advice people to start at 35-40% from the leading edge of the root chord. An example: If you root chord is 235mm you CG shall be at 82-94mm from the leading edge. This is no miracle recipie, but a good starting point. The CG does also depend on the planform - is the leading or trailing edge straight? Afterwards the CG needs finer adjustments. The first part is made with the dive test. Dive the model app. 45 deg. to the ground, release the controls and watch the model for a few cesonds (don't do this too close to the ground).

  • If it continues at the same path (45 deg.) or dive steeper, your model is a bit tail heavy and at the same time you need to raise the wing leading edge OR the tail trailing edge a bit.

  • If it makes a loop, your glider is nose heavy and at the same time you need to rise the wing trailing edge OR the tail leading edge a bit.

  • If it continues in a small arch and returns to a more normal flight path it is close to my preferred trim. All you have to do is to find out how fast you want it to return to level flight after a dive. This you do with more or less lead in the nose and trimming of the tail plane decalage.

If you want it to recover faster you need more ballast in the nose and to rise the tail trailing edge a bit.

If you want it to recover slower you need less ballast in the nose and to lower the tail trailing edge a bit.

Tow hook:

The tow hook needs to be positioned according to the C of G. My advice is to place the tow hook 0-10mm in front of the CG. If you place it furthest ahead (10mm) you get a very safe launch where you have to use the elevator a lot to get a descent attitude. If you place it right under the CG you get a very good attitude if you can control the plane on the line. Experiment!